√ Definition of Sea Waves, Theory, Benefits and Classification
Definition of Sea Waves, Theory, Benefits and Classification - On this occasion About Knowledge will discuss about Ocean Waves. Which in this discussion explains the meaning of sea waves, theory, benefits, causes and clarifications briefly and clearly. For more details, see the following article.
Definition of Sea Waves, Theory, Benefits and Classification
The definition of sea waves is a movement of the rise and fall of sea water without being accompanied by the transfer of water masses. There are several causes of sea waves, but the most common is due to wind.
Ocean waves have dimensions in the form of wave period (T), wave length, wave height, and wave speed. The sea waves are a phenomenon of periodic rising and falling of water that can be found in almost all places in the world.
The ocean waves occur based on the principles of physics. This happens when there are two masses of objects with different densities (density) rubbing against each other, then there is a field of motion that will form waves.
Ocean Wave Movement Theory
At the time of specific observations of the movement of the sea waves. It turns out that the wave water does not move forward but moves in a circle. So that the water only moves up and down when the waves pass.
Such waves can travel for long distances. But the medium (liquid, solid or gas) can only move limited. In an effort to explain the motion of ocean waves, there are many theories that have been introduced. However, there are only 2 theories that are considered the most appropriate and complementary, including the following:
Theory by Phillips
Turbulence in the wind causes random fluctuations in sea level. So as to produce small waves with a wavelength of several centimeters (cm). The small waves then grow bigger by going through a resonance process with fluctuations in turbulence pressure.
Theory by Miles
This theory is known as the theory of instability which is also called the theory of the feedback mechanism. This theory states that: When the size of the small waves that are growing begin to disrupt the flow of air above them. The blowing wind will exert stronger pressure as the wave size increases, which causes the waves to get bigger.
The energy transfer process takes place in an unstable manner. As the wave size increases, this instability causes the wave to grow exponentially.
Benefits of Ocean Waves
The following are the benefits of these ocean waves, including:
- Maintain the stability of temperature and also the world's climate
- Through the surface of the waves there is gas exchange
- Increase adaptability as well as the diversity of living things
- Helps form and maintain the beach
The Causes and Processes of Ocean Waves
Below are the causes and processes of ocean waves, including:
Wind
Wind is a large amount of air flow caused by the rotation of the earth and caused by differences in air pressure. The wind moves from places with high air pressure to places with low air pressure.
The movement of the wind will cause movement in sea water. The height of the waves caused by the wind depends on the speed. As well as the strength of the wind that hits the sea surface.
Earthquake
An earthquake is a vibration that occurs on the surface of the earth as a result of the sudden release of energy from within the earth. Usually these earthquakes occur due to the movement of the earth's crust.
Try to imagine or practice if you have a bowl or bucket filled with water. If the bowl or bucket is shaken, the water in the bowl will also move. This is the relationship or connection between sea waves and earthquakes. Movement from within the earth can make the formation of sea waves even more than that.
Gravitational Activity of the Moon and Sun
With the activity of the sun and the moon will produce sea waves with the type of tides.
Seabed depth
The waves will be very visible and also felt when you are on the beach. This happens because the volume of the seabed and also the water surface is narrowing. So that the mass of water that already has a force of motion will be pushed up to the surface and will create waves.
Classification of Types of Ocean Waves
There are several classifications of the types of ocean waves, along with their explanations.
By nature
There are 2 (two) kinds of sea waves, which are as follows:
- Coastal Builder/Shaper Sea Waves (Constructive Wave)
This wave is a wave whose height is small and the speed is also low. When the wave breaks on the beach it will transport sediment (beach material).
- Beach Destructive Waves
This wave is a sea wave with a great height and speed of propagation. When these waves hit the beach there will be a large volume of water that collects and also transports beach material out to sea.
Based on size and cause
Sea waves based on their size and causes, namely:
- Capillary waves
Capillary waves are waves that we usually call ripples, these capillary waves have a wavelength of about 1.7 meters. The period is less than 0.2 seconds and is caused by surface tension and wind that is not too strong.
- Wind waves (seas/wind waves)
This wave is a wave with a wavelength of up to 130 meters, a period of 0.2-0.9 seconds, and is also caused by strong winds.
- Swell waves
This wave is a wave whose wavelength can reach hundreds of meters, the period is around 0.9 – 15 seconds, and is also caused by wind that blows for a long time.
- Tidal Waves (Tidal Wave)
The tidal wave is a wave whose wavelength can reach several kilometers, the period is between 5 – 25 hours. And caused by fluctuations in the gravitational force of the sun and the moon.
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